Eating like Jazzy #1:
4 Leoni

Eating like Jazzy

On this most charming of Florentine squares, South of the Arno, awaits a meal to be remembered.

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“The fiochetti is my favorite,” recommends the waiter, speaking for everyone who has ventured to Piazza della Passera and tasted it. Trattoria 4 Leoni is marked off on the piazza with umbrellas and wrought-iron tables. The famed Fiocchetti di pera unites the sweet and the savory, with the pear and ricotta filled pasta morsels doused in a rich teleggio cheese sauce and topped with asparagus spears. The first bite makes your eyes pop.

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A similar effect is had with the seasonal Schiacciata all’uva, our personable waiter’s favorite dessert. It consists of young grapes from the current Chianti harvest dispersed among layers of focaccia, and baked to a sweet and tangy result, served with a small glass of sweet wine. Reminiscent of an Italian grape crumble, each bite is perfect. The cheesecake di maurino, with berries, though less special, is also faultless.


As is the service and setting in the small square, which invites diners to linger. Once upon a time, there was a brothel in the Piazza della Passera (hence the name, which translates to pussy, like more than a few words in Italian). These days, there are culinary and visual delights to be had, which will draw you back again.


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